Cheese, Popular Cheese

Cheese has been made for centuries. Whether it’s using the simple heat process to make the versatile fresh mozzarella or  the more involved microbiology of a veined blue cheese, this food is a vital dairy product made all over the world and spans all cultures, while employing various bases of cow’s, sheep’s and goat’s milk. The location of the manufacturing affects the outcome; atmospheric spores get into the product giving the cheese its unique taste and texture. The specific qualities of each cheese reminds the aficionado of why they are searching for Cambozola cheese, a striking combination of Camembert
(soft creamy French) and gorgonzola (Italian blue) cheese for a wine party or French Reblochon for melty ham sandwiches.
Grocery stores are learning that the American taste for unique cheeses is expanding with the introduction of food television and the food expos, not to mention all the magazines available. Even travel will educate the traveler about local, artisan and ‘national’ cheeses. Since trying to buy a pound of a favorite cheese found in Greece may be a challenge, new and trendy
restaurants, both local and national, are recognizing the cheese desire and serving up soft, stringy, pungent and delectable cheese dishes. There are many different classifications of cheese: fresh, semi-soft, semi firm, hard, double and triple cream,
soft-ripened, sharp, processed, goat, sheep and more. All of these classifications deal with the textures, aging and content.
Fresh mozzarella is simply made with heat, milk, rennet (an enzyme added to the milk) and citric acid. It’s light and delicate in flavor and melts wonderfully onto pizza. Soft cheeses like cream, neufchatel, and ricotta are easily used for desserts and fillings for foods like cannoli. Sharp cheddar is great with fruit, as the pungent cheese is complemented by the light sweet of
a green apple. All of these are made using different techniques and utilizing specific ingredients, such as annatto, a coloring
for the cheddar, or specific mold for the blue cheese veins. Others still have to be left on their own, quietly developing the flavors the ingredients added will allow. The interest in all things cheese started at the local grocers with developing its own section. Whether the cheese has one cooler dedicated to the selection, or definite divisions into French, Italian, German selections, the job of cheese monger in the grocery store in the U.S. has grown. Trader Joe’s grocery chain boasts of having the largest selection of brie cheeses anywhere. Giant Eagle, another  chain grocery store, has been renovating their cheese and antipasto area, providing a wide variety of cheeses from many sources along with an olive and marinated vegetable bar. One local gourmet store near me has a cheese department so vast and  varied that when I took my fiancé there for the first time, he looked at me and asked if that was all cheese. I said yes and he shivered. We left with several international cheeses from that visit, including a mild dilled havarti and emmentaler, a Swiss-style
cheese. As the food retailers upgraded their cheese departments, the restaurant industry began to realize there was a need for cheese-centered menus. Across the country, national chain restaurants like The Melting Pot, an upscale fondue restaurant, was created for the fromage fan. Local entrepreneurs also started to recreate classic cheese combinations into their own  one-of-akind presentations of the dairy delight. Melt Bar & Grilled, a local Cleveland restaurant with two locations, utilizes cheese in sandwiches, soups, desserts and appetizers in amazing and tasty combinations, some from the outer limits of normal dining and thinking. To try these plated mounds of melted magnificence can take up to a two hour wait on popular nights and most
fans gladly will. My first recipe is more of a party suggestion. Stores now have fondue cheese kits which have the cheese  product ready to melt and serve. This is a great idea because many times the cheese will melt, then either clump up or separate – the fat from the milk.  The kit has cheese that melts evenly and won’t separate. Also, for a party, I love to serve a dessert baked brie. It’s a small wheel of brie baked in puff pastry and served warm. Finally, cheese filled olives. Very easy and people love them so make extra. Brilliant!

Baked Dessert Brie

1 sheet store bought puff pastry,
thawed completely
1 8 oz. wheel brie
1 / 4 c. chopped pecans
1 / 4 c cherry Craisins
1 / 2 t. cinnamon
1 / 2 T butter
1 egg, beaten
2 green granny smith apples
Lemon juice
Honey
Preheat oven to 375F. Melt butter in small skillet. Toss pecans into butter and stir until light brown. Remove from heat. Stir in cherry Craisins and cinnamon. Let cool. Lay pastry on counter and pile pecans and craisins in center. Gently fold sides up and cover brie completely, cutting away excess. Carefully turn wheel over and place on ungreased baking sheet. Cut out leaves or other designs from excess dough and place on top. Brush dough with egg and bake 20 minutes or until golden brown. Cut apples into thin slices, toss with lemon juice and chill. Remove cheese from oven, let cool slightly and drizzle honey over top. Cut into wheel and serve with apple slices and crackers.

Stuffed Green Olives

24 - 30 large green olives, unstuffed
1 small container ricotta

10 oz. gorgonzola, room temp
1 lemon, zested and juiced
1 t. thyme
1 / 2 t. salt
1 / 4 t pepper
Rinse olives in warm water then pat dry. Mash gorgonzola, breaking up large pieces. Add ricotta, thyme, salt, juice and zest and stir. Let rest 1 hour. Put into ziplock bag, cut one corner slightly smaller than the pitted end of the olive and fill each olive. Use the bag as you would a frosting bag. When finished, refrigerate for one hour. Serve chilled. Store any unused cheese in fridge for 2 weeks.

*Julianna Leber is a part time personal chef and caterer, while finishing her post baccalaureate degree in nutrition at the University of Akron. In 2001, she received her certificates from the professional culinary course at Ballymaloe Cookery School, County Cork, Ireland. She can be reached at Julileber@ hotmail.com.

September

As the summer season slowly closes, the days are getting shorter and the air a little cooler, the exciting world of fall and winter sports begin to heat up. Whether its high school, college or professional football, fans of all ages and regions gather to cheer their team on. It doesn’t matter if it’s the fans’ alma mater or home town heroes, people fanatical in their faith of their teams’ abilities will gather in great crowds to watch and cheer their boys on to victory.

Tailgating is part pep rally, part money saving tactic before entering the world of $10 burgers and $8 beers. I volunteered for a season at a stadium where games started at 1:05, which meant we had to show up by 9am. Walking to the security gates, we would pass the early tailgaters firing up their grills  and chilling the beverages, though it was cold enough to not need much ice. It was fun to watch the  energy build for the game. Slowly people gathered, one or two guys skillfully managing the grills, with tables and even SUV and truck tailgates down to eat on, hence the name. It was the wonderful smoke coming up from the grills that shout we love fire and our team!

Many books have been written about grilling. These events employ certain type of foods that may not be in the Martha series. However, when standing over the grill, don’t disappoint fellow fans with simple hot dogs. Those are reserved for Tuesdays at the grade school. Italian and German sausages, sweet or spicy sausages, bratwurst and similar are more suited to the fans’ hungry needs. Soak them in a good amber beer along with sauerkraut. While grilling the sausages, simmer the beer/ sauerkraut in a non-reactive pan on the grill. Don’t forget the stadium mustard, onions and the rest.

A great way to keep warm on a cold game day is to have hot, filling foods like stews. Dublin coddle, a traditional Irish soup/stew, is a great and easy dish everyone will love. It is topped with cheddar cheese and is filled with bacon and sausage along with potatoes, carrots, onions and lots of great flavor. It would be made ahead of time and depending on the container could be gently reheated over the grill. After all of this great food, the thought of something a little sweet comes to mind. Not much, just a bite or two and the need is satisfied. For this, I go back to camping and Girls Scouts: S’mores! They are unfortunately overlooked in the adult world, and yet the simple preparation and consumption are easy for any overexcited sports fan. Three ingredients: chocolate bar, graham crackers and marshmallows and a warm grill are all it takes to make this two-bite dessert champion ready. For a make at home and just as easy dessert, empty two cans of your favorite pie filling— apple, peach, blueberry—into a baking dish. Combine 2/3 c. flour, 1/2 c. brown sugar, 1/2 quick oats, and 1/2 t. salt. Cut in 4 T. cold butter and sprinkle it over the fruit. Bake in a 350°F oven for 20 minutes, or until top is lightly brown and filling bubbles. Allow to cool 10 minutes and serve with whipped cream, if desired.

Football games, whether high school, college or professional all have their throngs of high-spirited, frenzied, wild fans. Weekends and even holidays are built around the game of tossing the pigskin. The only way to enjoy the experience just a little bit more is to infuse the four quarters with the greatest grub available. Tailgating is sport eating at its best. Go team and slainte!

Dublin Coddle

Serves 4-6
1 1/2 lbs. floury potatoes
(Idaho)
1 lb. bag baby carrots
1 medium onion, chopped
1 12 oz. package breakfast
sausage links
12 oz. thick cut bacon
1 bunch fresh thyme or 2
t. dried
Salt and pepper
Water
Potato flakes (optional)
Shredded cheddar
Fill pot 1/2 full water and
set to boil. Scrub potatoes, cut into chunks and add to water. Add carrots and onion. Cut links into 1 inch pieces (usually 3 per link). Add thyme and 1 t. salt and 1/2 t. pepper. Reduce heat to slow boil. Fry bacon, drain, crumble and set aside. When veggies are done, lightly mash veggies. If you want a thicker stew, add potato flakes. Check seasonings and add salt and pepper. Stir in crumbled bacon, and top with cheddar if desired. Recipe can be easily doubled or more.

Julianna Leber is a graduate of the professional food and wine courses at Ballymaloe Cookery School in County Cork, Ireland. She occasionally serves as a personal chef while also continuing her studies toward a dietetics/nutrition degree at The University of Akron, Ohio.

Julianna can be  contacted at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it and will respond to your questions and comments as soon as possible.